Saturday, March 27, 2010
Thursday, February 11, 2010
R.I.P. Alexander McQueen
I just learned that Alexander McQueen passed away, probably by his own hand. I read this in the Houston Chronicle, where every bozo with an opinion can post it for the world to see. And they do, most wondering who he was and why anyone should care about fashion anyway.
I admit that I lost interest in fashion after my freshman year in college. I designed a lot of my own clothes in high school and loved the creativity of being able to wear my own artwork.
Then I had kids and had no time for that. For many years, my standard attire was a crisp white t-shirt and jeans. I was busy and that was easy and looked fine. Then I moved to dresses and business suits, but still didn't concern myself with fashion. It's only recently that I've begun thinking about it again, because I'm again doing some designing myself.
In answer to those folks who think fashion is frivolous, I would offer this explanation. Fashion both reflects and creates the mood of the times. You cannot see paintings of Marie Antoinette, for instance, without understanding that the aristocrats were living lives of extreme luxury that seemed to ignore the suffering of their subjects. Understandably, this provoked outrage. The enormous, elaborate antebellum dresses in the US gave way to simpler gowns during and after the Civil War. The war created hardships that lasted for decades; people were mourning both loved ones and the country they had known, and fashion reflected that in simpler clothing. It was also a time for exploration, and fashion was secondary.
Fashion again went into overdrive during the Victorian era. That burst of exploration had resulted in new wealth. You see women exaggerating the narrowness of their waists and the size of their bosoms, in other words, accentuating the difference between male and female.
This is also what fashion does - it serves as a mating signal, not just in so-called "native" societies, but in Western culture as well. During that same Revolutionary era when French fashions led the way, men were dressing like peacocks in bold-colored silk and powdered wigs. At the turn of the 19th Century, men's fashion became more subdued. By the Victorian Era, when women returned to excess in fashion, men had moved into the strict black-and-white mode where they've pretty much remained ever since, for formal wear, at least.
For a time, fashions simplified, and then came the Roaring Twenties, a time of gross excess that ushered in the Flapper era. It's said that skirt lengths rise during times of prosperity, and it's hard now to fathom why shorter skirts were so shocking then, but they were.
The austerity of the Great Depression affected fashion that lasted well into WW2, when shortages created a demand for synthetic fabrics. This revolution in available fabrics in turn changed fashion. And no one can underestimate the sharp contrast between 50s fashion and 60s fashion. Form follows function, as Mies van derRohe said (I think it was him).
And that's another point. Fashion is ascribed to clothing, but architecture corresponds quite closely to clothing fashions, with elaborate embellishment in clothing and architecture happening during the same time frames, and severe, clean lines appearing in clothing and architecture during corresponding eras. Symmetry and/or asymmetry are reflected in both, and perhaps describe an underlying truth about society.
Nowadays, you have throwaway buildings AND throwaway clothing being created. Fashion affects the ads we see, the way our products are packaged and presented, nearly every aspect of life is affected by prevailing fashions. We see shapes differently and decide whether they are attractive or unattractive based upon how we respond to it on the human body. An artist can create any wild, idiotic thing, but if the public sees it and yawns, then it's nothing. But if it strikes a nerve - good or bad - then it's art, and whether you like it or not, those silhouettes will be replicated throughout the culture. This is also true of colors. Remember when teal and mauve were EVERYWHERE? When a lot of people latch onto these cultural handles and use them in their own lives, I think it gives us a sense of cohesiveness.
That is why, sometimes, an artist is ahead of his or her time. It is only later that people respond to their work.
Right now, I see fashion as being as confused as our times. I'm looking at Neiman Marcus online and it seems that short dresses are all the rage, much to my chagrin. They're cute, but I don't know how well they'll be accepted in middle America. Short skirts have always seemed to indicate good times. Designers and stores may be showing shorter skirts, yet we all know times are hard. Is fashion trying to distract us and make us think things are better than they are - a false optimism? Or is fashion, as the voice of our collective unconscious, trying to lead us back to good times?
The long expanse of leg and the big, chunky shoes for sale now are simply modified visions from McQueen's last show. People responded to it. All this is a way of saying that yes, we should be sorry to lose such a creative and talented person as McQueen. May he rest in peace.
I admit that I lost interest in fashion after my freshman year in college. I designed a lot of my own clothes in high school and loved the creativity of being able to wear my own artwork.
Then I had kids and had no time for that. For many years, my standard attire was a crisp white t-shirt and jeans. I was busy and that was easy and looked fine. Then I moved to dresses and business suits, but still didn't concern myself with fashion. It's only recently that I've begun thinking about it again, because I'm again doing some designing myself.
In answer to those folks who think fashion is frivolous, I would offer this explanation. Fashion both reflects and creates the mood of the times. You cannot see paintings of Marie Antoinette, for instance, without understanding that the aristocrats were living lives of extreme luxury that seemed to ignore the suffering of their subjects. Understandably, this provoked outrage. The enormous, elaborate antebellum dresses in the US gave way to simpler gowns during and after the Civil War. The war created hardships that lasted for decades; people were mourning both loved ones and the country they had known, and fashion reflected that in simpler clothing. It was also a time for exploration, and fashion was secondary.
Fashion again went into overdrive during the Victorian era. That burst of exploration had resulted in new wealth. You see women exaggerating the narrowness of their waists and the size of their bosoms, in other words, accentuating the difference between male and female.
This is also what fashion does - it serves as a mating signal, not just in so-called "native" societies, but in Western culture as well. During that same Revolutionary era when French fashions led the way, men were dressing like peacocks in bold-colored silk and powdered wigs. At the turn of the 19th Century, men's fashion became more subdued. By the Victorian Era, when women returned to excess in fashion, men had moved into the strict black-and-white mode where they've pretty much remained ever since, for formal wear, at least.
For a time, fashions simplified, and then came the Roaring Twenties, a time of gross excess that ushered in the Flapper era. It's said that skirt lengths rise during times of prosperity, and it's hard now to fathom why shorter skirts were so shocking then, but they were.
The austerity of the Great Depression affected fashion that lasted well into WW2, when shortages created a demand for synthetic fabrics. This revolution in available fabrics in turn changed fashion. And no one can underestimate the sharp contrast between 50s fashion and 60s fashion. Form follows function, as Mies van derRohe said (I think it was him).
And that's another point. Fashion is ascribed to clothing, but architecture corresponds quite closely to clothing fashions, with elaborate embellishment in clothing and architecture happening during the same time frames, and severe, clean lines appearing in clothing and architecture during corresponding eras. Symmetry and/or asymmetry are reflected in both, and perhaps describe an underlying truth about society.
Nowadays, you have throwaway buildings AND throwaway clothing being created. Fashion affects the ads we see, the way our products are packaged and presented, nearly every aspect of life is affected by prevailing fashions. We see shapes differently and decide whether they are attractive or unattractive based upon how we respond to it on the human body. An artist can create any wild, idiotic thing, but if the public sees it and yawns, then it's nothing. But if it strikes a nerve - good or bad - then it's art, and whether you like it or not, those silhouettes will be replicated throughout the culture. This is also true of colors. Remember when teal and mauve were EVERYWHERE? When a lot of people latch onto these cultural handles and use them in their own lives, I think it gives us a sense of cohesiveness.
That is why, sometimes, an artist is ahead of his or her time. It is only later that people respond to their work.
Right now, I see fashion as being as confused as our times. I'm looking at Neiman Marcus online and it seems that short dresses are all the rage, much to my chagrin. They're cute, but I don't know how well they'll be accepted in middle America. Short skirts have always seemed to indicate good times. Designers and stores may be showing shorter skirts, yet we all know times are hard. Is fashion trying to distract us and make us think things are better than they are - a false optimism? Or is fashion, as the voice of our collective unconscious, trying to lead us back to good times?
The long expanse of leg and the big, chunky shoes for sale now are simply modified visions from McQueen's last show. People responded to it. All this is a way of saying that yes, we should be sorry to lose such a creative and talented person as McQueen. May he rest in peace.
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Anderson Cooper and the Struggle to Survive
I'm reading Anderson Cooper's blog and Twitter updates, and he says he's going back to Haiti because "no one's struggle to live should go unnoticed." I admire that sentiment, and I'm sure I'd feel the same if I had gone to Haiti in the aftermath of the earthquake; in fact, I wanted, and still want, to go and help.
That said, I can't help but take issue with his blithe presumption that people aren't struggling to live right here in the good old USA. They may not be crushed by buildings, but there are plenty of folks who are crushed by grinding poverty and whose daily existence is an effort to survive. What does Anderson Cooper, who was born into wealth and privilege (son of Gloria Vanderbilt) know about people struggling to live?
I'm not talking about people who recently lost jobs. It's dire for many of us, sure, but we'll be fine. I'm talking about the people I used to work with, people who are working the system when they can to provide for their children. They don't see other options - they really don't. I'm talking about people who nail cardboard or sheet metal over walls to keep the cold air out. Who walk everywhere or bum rides if they can. People who work two and three jobs to get their kids the latest shoes to wear to school, and have nothing left for themselves. People who then have to worry about whether their kids will be attacked for those very shoes. People who sometimes resort to drugs or alcohol to fight the pain of everyday life. It's not an immediate crushing blow, but it's just as traumatic. Squalor doesn't just happen in Third World countries; it happens here, too.
I wish AC well in Haiti, but I would like to see him do some hard-hitting stories about poverty in America. He might be surprised.
That said, I can't help but take issue with his blithe presumption that people aren't struggling to live right here in the good old USA. They may not be crushed by buildings, but there are plenty of folks who are crushed by grinding poverty and whose daily existence is an effort to survive. What does Anderson Cooper, who was born into wealth and privilege (son of Gloria Vanderbilt) know about people struggling to live?
I'm not talking about people who recently lost jobs. It's dire for many of us, sure, but we'll be fine. I'm talking about the people I used to work with, people who are working the system when they can to provide for their children. They don't see other options - they really don't. I'm talking about people who nail cardboard or sheet metal over walls to keep the cold air out. Who walk everywhere or bum rides if they can. People who work two and three jobs to get their kids the latest shoes to wear to school, and have nothing left for themselves. People who then have to worry about whether their kids will be attacked for those very shoes. People who sometimes resort to drugs or alcohol to fight the pain of everyday life. It's not an immediate crushing blow, but it's just as traumatic. Squalor doesn't just happen in Third World countries; it happens here, too.
I wish AC well in Haiti, but I would like to see him do some hard-hitting stories about poverty in America. He might be surprised.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Go Red!
A couple of friends and I were joking a while ago about how gravity is so cruel to women. One said, “You know you’re getting older when you have to bend over forward to put your bra on.” The other one replied: “You know you’re getting older when you need a bra for your butt.”
It's hell getting older when you’re female. The older a woman gets, the more invisible she gets, even if she puts on enough weight to stop a bus.
Heart disease has long been considered a man’s problem. But the gender bias that made heart disease a man’s problem has shifted focus. More women than men now die from heart disease. Lots more. Heart disease is the number one killer of American women.
While we can’t do much about gravity, we can take steps to avoid heart disease.
The American Heart Association has once again launched their February campaign to raise awareness of heart disease and stroke among women. They're focusing on the softer side with this campaign, telling women that as nurturers, they must protect their hearts.
The symbol for this campaign is that little red dress - presumably the reward for following the AHA’s advice. If you incorporate their recommendations into your daily life, maybe you too can fit into an impossibly sexy little red dress - and help your heart at the same time.
First, know the symptoms of a heart attack. Researchers believe women may not recognize what is happening because the familiar TV chest-clutching scenario is rarely in play. For instance, women (and men) may break out in cold sweats or be short of breath before chest discomfort starts. They may feel nauseous or lightheaded. It’s important to know that just because you don’t feel actual pain, you shouldn’t dismiss your discomfort.
And there are ways to reduce your risk. We could do this in unison: Altogether now! Exercise more! Quit smoking! Get your blood pressure and cholesterol checked and lower them if needed! Your doctor can tell you how.
And don’t assume that just because you don’t feel tense that your blood pressure is not high. I hear that all the time—people say they can “tell” when their blood pressure is high. YOU CAN'T TELL. You can, in fact, be reading a book or taking a long, relaxing soak in the tub and still have dangerously high blood pressure. Have your blood pressure checked regularly and follow your doctor’s advice.
Take care of your heart. If you don’t, who will?
It's hell getting older when you’re female. The older a woman gets, the more invisible she gets, even if she puts on enough weight to stop a bus.
Heart disease has long been considered a man’s problem. But the gender bias that made heart disease a man’s problem has shifted focus. More women than men now die from heart disease. Lots more. Heart disease is the number one killer of American women.
While we can’t do much about gravity, we can take steps to avoid heart disease.
The American Heart Association has once again launched their February campaign to raise awareness of heart disease and stroke among women. They're focusing on the softer side with this campaign, telling women that as nurturers, they must protect their hearts.
The symbol for this campaign is that little red dress - presumably the reward for following the AHA’s advice. If you incorporate their recommendations into your daily life, maybe you too can fit into an impossibly sexy little red dress - and help your heart at the same time.
First, know the symptoms of a heart attack. Researchers believe women may not recognize what is happening because the familiar TV chest-clutching scenario is rarely in play. For instance, women (and men) may break out in cold sweats or be short of breath before chest discomfort starts. They may feel nauseous or lightheaded. It’s important to know that just because you don’t feel actual pain, you shouldn’t dismiss your discomfort.
And there are ways to reduce your risk. We could do this in unison: Altogether now! Exercise more! Quit smoking! Get your blood pressure and cholesterol checked and lower them if needed! Your doctor can tell you how.
And don’t assume that just because you don’t feel tense that your blood pressure is not high. I hear that all the time—people say they can “tell” when their blood pressure is high. YOU CAN'T TELL. You can, in fact, be reading a book or taking a long, relaxing soak in the tub and still have dangerously high blood pressure. Have your blood pressure checked regularly and follow your doctor’s advice.
Take care of your heart. If you don’t, who will?
Monday, February 1, 2010
The Fitness Guru
Because my “real” jobs have had little to do with exercise, I’ve gotten a bit of ribbing along the lines of, “Who died and made you the guru of fitness?”
Well, nobody, of course. I worked my way through graduate school partly as a personal trainer, but my relationship to exercise is love-hate, at best. When I am deeply committed, I love it. But like anyone else, when I am not, I loathe even the thought of it. The difference is, I suppose, that I learned early how powerful exercise could be in bringing about a significant improvement in health. So I goad myself through those rough patches and am deeply grateful when it pays off.
I’m not talking about weight, but health. Studies are proving that weight itself is not as unhealthy as has been portrayed. I have told clients many times: Don’t worry about your weight -- worry about how you feel. Exercise makes you feel better—makes you healthier—no matter how many pounds you carry around. That you will also look better is just an added bonus.
Well, nobody, of course. I worked my way through graduate school partly as a personal trainer, but my relationship to exercise is love-hate, at best. When I am deeply committed, I love it. But like anyone else, when I am not, I loathe even the thought of it. The difference is, I suppose, that I learned early how powerful exercise could be in bringing about a significant improvement in health. So I goad myself through those rough patches and am deeply grateful when it pays off.
I’m not talking about weight, but health. Studies are proving that weight itself is not as unhealthy as has been portrayed. I have told clients many times: Don’t worry about your weight -- worry about how you feel. Exercise makes you feel better—makes you healthier—no matter how many pounds you carry around. That you will also look better is just an added bonus.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Free Advice
Here's an adage that's worth remembering. Free advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
A lady came up to me in the gym tonight and introduced herself as Tina. Tina said I had great arms and looked like I knew what I was doing so she asked me for stretches or exercises to help her injured shoulder. ME???
Anyway, she had injured her shoulder during a trail bike accident and said that it had gotten pulled out of the socket. This happened 7 or 8 months ago and she'd never had it looked at. I advised her to see a doctor, but she said she was a graduate student (she looked about my age) and didn't have insurance. While I can relate to the problem, I sure as heck wasn't going to offer advice on how to rehab her shoulder when I didn't know anything about her injury. So many things could be going on there, but after this length of time, I doubt if it's minor.
When I left, she appeared to be asking the kid at the front desk about the problem. He may be a nice guy and he may have some training, but her problem really required a doctor's look-see.
This is why I ALWAYS say, check with your doctor before beginning any workout program. It may cost you, but it'll probably save you pain and possibly further injury in the long run.
A lady came up to me in the gym tonight and introduced herself as Tina. Tina said I had great arms and looked like I knew what I was doing so she asked me for stretches or exercises to help her injured shoulder. ME???
Anyway, she had injured her shoulder during a trail bike accident and said that it had gotten pulled out of the socket. This happened 7 or 8 months ago and she'd never had it looked at. I advised her to see a doctor, but she said she was a graduate student (she looked about my age) and didn't have insurance. While I can relate to the problem, I sure as heck wasn't going to offer advice on how to rehab her shoulder when I didn't know anything about her injury. So many things could be going on there, but after this length of time, I doubt if it's minor.
When I left, she appeared to be asking the kid at the front desk about the problem. He may be a nice guy and he may have some training, but her problem really required a doctor's look-see.
This is why I ALWAYS say, check with your doctor before beginning any workout program. It may cost you, but it'll probably save you pain and possibly further injury in the long run.
Monday, January 25, 2010
Heading Out
...to the gym. Missed a couple of days, but I can't miss any more! Got to get rid of those cookies I ate!
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